... continued from Travels in AustraliaSaturday 10th April - Darwin, Australia to Kupang, West Timor, IndonesiaPick up air ticket, photos(!), laundry, tour, may be 14th, another week in Indo. At this rate I will be flying straight to Amsterdam. Write hundreds of postcards, final pint in the Rourke, and before I know it I'm on a bus, on a plane, in a taxi, in Indo. Asia, again, full on. Cassandra's is as promised, a friendly home, a birthday feast for Johnny, and I'm pooped by 9.20. East Timor is off the agenda it would appear. Sunday 11th April - Kupang |
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Sleepy Sunday in Kupang. Bastard hot, set off for an explore, get to the port (fishing) by which time my fags are exhausted and I have to come back for a restock. Lovely lunch on the front. Come back and crash profoundly. Wake up hungryish and try the local steak house. Good but slow so I'm late for my coffee date. Back for chat with Etty and then try to sleep but fail and end up nearly finishing Captain Corelli by 3 a.m. Monday 12th April - Kupang |
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Up fairly late, finish Captain Corelli, heartbreaking, bastard hot again. Off to Monkey Island. Great journey out, great walk, great swim, pretty exciting journey back when engine conks out and weather cuts up, but all's well that ends. So we get back, I eat a fish, truck all the way up to the post office, which is shut. Troop all the way back down to Teddys, have a nice tea amongst Aussie expats and their girls, who may be prostitutes. Bump into my Sumba guide, and rush back for a party with Johnny and his fisherman buddies which is a bit sombre but fun nevertheless. Tuesday 13th April - Kupang to Soe |
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Slow start, pack up, say goodbyes and we're on a bemo then a bus to Soe. Pisses down at the end of the journey, but in no time we're here. Head off for post office, which is shut again (!). Nice late lunch, come over all knackered, sleep afternoon, evening, night, barely up by 7. Wednesday 14th April - SoeOff to post office, success at last. Out to Niki Niki with Eban, great market, good lunch, see first traditional houses/people. Come back, crash out, but not for so long. Woken at 4 by english voice, turns out to be right miserable bitch. Out for tea, back by 8, in bed for 9 which seems |
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like quite a late night! Tomorrow should be a right laugh! Thursday 15th April - Soe to BotiSo we're off, pretty much on time, bus to Oenai, then walking. Absolutely beautiful, my heart almost soars. We hit the river and barefoot the pain kicks in, but we're soon into a final, hot, steep climb and then, welcomed into a totally traditional village by the King's family. No king, but we get food, coffee, photos, weaving demo. I buy a couple of very reasonable little blankets, we crash till dusk. Eban's english starts to |
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falter once the King rocks up. More food, a rather strained cultural exchange, and crash. Friday 16th April - Boti to SoeUp just after the lark. Quick breakfast and say goodbye to the King and his retinue, and we're off, looking to walk to Oenai before the heat. Doesn't work out like that. The start is indeed downhill, and the river much faster in shoes, but the end seems to climb forever, and even Eban is struggling, still, soaked in sweat, we're there in the end. When the bus comes, we're on the roof, very cool in all senses. Into a bemo for the journey back, Eban's cough at last getting on my tits, but we remove to Hotel Bahagia for lunch and say our goodbyes. Back to Hotel, profound crash as usual. Up for a long chat with Johannes, then off in the dark to Solo. Busy, then quiet, then full of scouts and guides. Back home, good day, nice to be clean again. |
Saturday 17th April - Soe to KupangUp surprisingly late and packing takes forever. The now standard deep-fried banana, a couple of photos of Hotel Anda, and we're saying our goodbyes. Instant bemo, virtually instant bus, bad choice of seats but we're soon back. First serious fight-off at bus terminal, but I'm an old timer now! No. 10 bemo and home. Boat is Monday, but it gives me a chance to sort out flight and money because I don't find Merpati office. Retire to fave restaurant for beer. Schedule in tatters, what the hell. Back to Cassandra, sharing room with Etty's sister, who turns out to be mega-babe, oh dear! Bit of a dead loss day, cute sis is in with the hussey crowd, seems disappointed when I don't come out to Teddys |
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with them but it's probably for the best. They rock back noisily at midnight and I can hear them fucking about with my lighter. Just when I think I'm never going to get to sleep, it's morning. Sunday 18th April - KupangPredictably my fags and lighter are gone, want to get washing done, but feel I have to wait around for Sumba guide. Schedule would workish if he didn't turn up, he does, so it's off to Pelni, shut, to his aunt and uncles for introductions and coffee, back, don't get my bearings but |
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pass Merpati, but on the way back we're there in no time. So, washing. Now there's no water. Wind-up day, go for lunch at Depot Mini, head done in by prescence of Merpati, now I know where I am! Back, at last there's water, washing, crash, but then sis throws a mega-wobbler. I'd be out if I didn't have a stack of wet washing! All settles and the rain starts! Oh well, out in the evening in jeans but it's not that cool after all. Meal average in barren restaurant, only big beer, so 2nd beer with Lorensius and brother and I'm pretty pissed. Waddle back, stop off at Java boys for coffee, and collapse. |
Monday 19th April - Departure from KupangBig day, plane tickets, no problem, money change, no problem, washing dry no problem. Lorensius turns up and we're off, boat O.K., and by 3 we're on our way, seen off by whale shark. Boat's O.K. with nice Canadian couple, but as the night wears on it all gets a bit cramped and fetid. Tuesday 20th April - Ende, FloresHello Flores. Looks very volcanically beautiful. Transpires that boat doesn't leave till 4 or maybe 5, so we head for a hotel to sleep, wash, eat, very nice. Row with bemo driver on way back so much to Lorensius's horror we walk it back. Boat still there, so what can go wrong... Actually nothing, the boat's pretty empty, the sea's rough but the sleep's good and we're there by 4. |
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Down to Pero again, then turn right to two traditional villages. I make a massive faux pas in the second not giving a big enough donation, but we get out of Tosi alive. Back up the hill, then into Waitabula for lunch, to Waikelo for a walk on the beach and drinks, then home via a visit to another sister in her school. A long day in the saddle! Nice evening bonding on the patio. Friday 23rd April - SumbaVery early start for a tour of the beaches. Stop in Waitabula for meet of nurse sister, then again in Waikabubak for visit to original sister, then off. Some lovely beaches, lunch at Rua, and it's getting on by the time we head for the third, but Lorensius says it's O.K. So off we go, and it is stunning. Set off home and the rain sets in big time so we pause to eat at sister's and get kitted up with jackets. Bit of a faff when bikes get separated but off we go, only to catch up with Lorensius having had a puncture. This gets fixed by a multitude as the light fades. We head back in the dark, first |
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slowly, then anything but, but praise god get home to tales of high jinx. What a day. Lorensius pitches the full academic finance deal and it's a late night. Saturday 24th April - SumbaHoping for a gentle day, we troop into Waitabula and remeet the nurse from yesterday and her family. Her english is good enough to find out that half those brothers are cousins and the head of the house is Papa's brother. Head off to Waikelo, then back for lunch and photos, |
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average. Off for one last sightsee, a cave and waterfall. A brief stop for rain, coffee and an english teacher, collect more photos, the family and kids, superb, a head back at breakneck speed, photos are received ecstatically, and Lorensius manipulates that this isn't the final night. Sunday 25th April - SumbaVirtual battle of wills gets the bikes returned, fantastic lunch in Waikabubak, buses back are slow but good fun. It transpires that six of us are heading to Waingapu and I warm to the idea as we head back on a "lively bus". A pleasant enough last evening, and Mama and Papa present |
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me with 2 very nice ikat scarves. Monday 26th April - SumbaWhat will transpire to be the nightmare day of the trip starts at 3 a.m. when fuckwit wakes me up with the usual kicking and yelling. I have a terrible pain in my leg and feel impossibly thirsty. Increasing his fuckwit status he wakes everyone up half an hour later. I drink copiously and am violently sick. This happens twice, and I'm worried about the mammoth journey, but after some decent sleep I start to feel a bit better and we embark, slowly. At Waikabubak it becomes obvious that I've got a vicious fever, and we wait hours for a bus which is then the slowest bus ever. After more ambiguity on our arrival in Waingapu I at last put my foot down and we end up at the Hotel Surabaya. I count the minutes till I see the back of Lorensius. He's costing me a fortune and driving me mad. |
Tuesday 27th April - Sumba to Ende, FloresAnd so, the day of judgement. Wake up feeling a lot better. Embark to bank, usual grief throwing off the boy. Wait for boat, double back for ticket, transpires it's a Pelni ship, very late but huge and faster, so we say goodbye to the parents, but not before shaking off the final pitch for glasses for mother, and embark and set sail. The boat only stops for an hour in Ende, so when I leave the boat, I'm FREE!!! |
Thursday 29th April - EndeBig organisation day. Bank, Merpati, no flight, Australia, no problem, eat, walk, shelter from massive rain, back to hotel, collect laundry and repack. Eventually struggle out into the fading drizzle and manage a minute and a half with Mother before being cut off. Realise from the cost that I was massively ripped off this morning. Have an amble around but can't find the other restaurant so back to the hotel for shrimps again, which appear to give me the shits. |
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Friday 30th April - Ende to LarantukaWake up nervous but no need, dream bemo, dream bus, very nearly the perfect journey except for the poor little run-over doggie. I've travelled in some savage places, but Indonesia does seem to wear it's savagery on it's sleeve. Anyway, incredible scenery, clean, efficient, comfortable uncrowded bus, and I'm dropped at the doorstep, which is lucky, because the rain is lashing down, just like yesterday. Phase 1 completed! Place is very nice, wish I could stay longer, out for fish and chip tea which is enormous. Meet German who is an old hand, and drink arak, good day. |
Saturday 1st May - LarantukaUp at 6, boat at 8, smooth, another super day. Rain all night slowly clears, views are beautiful, a superb 8-hour cruise for a quid! Back by 4, fried, shampoo and anti-p, cushtey! Try the other restaurant in the evening, very nice, retire early with a warm feeling, but fretting that the bus is apparently 8. Sunday 2nd May - Larantuka to Moni |
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Which would explain why I'm knocked up at 6.45 having fallen back to sleep. Other than that it's cruisey again and we're in Moni by 3. Reject walking up, head for posh bungalows and have a small amble through the village. It all looks different, I'm sure some of it is missing. Anyway 3 down, 7 to go, all going a tad too well, except for leg, back and throat! Get organised for mini-tour in the morning, can't see myself making Bajawa, eat in, early night. |
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Monday 3rd May - Moni to EndeKelimutu day! Looks ominous as we moto through the clouds, but sure enough there they are, with about 12 fareng. They come and go through clouds, and it's not until we leave the viewing area to walk to the rim that the sun really cuts through. As we head thru Woloworu to Ngela it becomes obvious Bajawa's out of the window. Still, Telkom and film. Ngela turns into a circus, 2 ikats and 2 photos. Back for lunch, last chat to English guys and I'm back on the same bus to Ende, with 2 Swedish girls, this time to Hotel Ikhlas. Try to get a few jobs done, Mother out, buy film, eat in hotel and collapse. Tuesday 4th May - Ende to Labuanbajo |
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So, the rumours were true and phase 6 becomes Rinca not Komodo. Up just after 6. Not feeling that chipper. Cold really set in, but after coffee and juice we're off, two hours threading through the islands and we're there. One dragon to greet us, many more hanging around the camp. We then go for a walk, but don't see any real wilds, but a scary water buffalo. It's all excellent but I feel rotten and can't eat a thing on the boat. Then I fry myself on the way back, and by the time we're home at 2.30, I feel dreadful. Delirious the afternoon away and rally by sunset. Ticket all the way to Denpasar organised, but I'm way short of money. Quick tea so I've eaten something today and early night. Thursday 6th May - Departure from Labuanbajo |
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Wake up feeling alright, but on Sape ferry leg blows up again, oh dear. Tiny bus to Bima, feverish again, air-con from there. |
Friday 7th May - In transit, Bima, Surabaya to Denpasar, BaliBy 7 a.m. we're on the way to Lombok, and the day meanders away. Lombok's very beautiful, but I'm tired and ill, the final ferry journey almost kills me, but Bali is so beautiful and I'm so close and it's so beautiful that my spirits lift. The sun sets, in no time I'm in a taxi, in an air-con room, in the hospital. Bandage, injections, tablets, welcome to Denpasar. Saturday 8th May - DenpasarVery good sleep, leg a little better. Slow breakfast, off to hospital, then far too much walking, films, book Borobodur flight against doctor's orders and return exhausted. Doze the afternoon, appear for a chat with the boys, retire and return for football, bit of a Villa/Charlton gripper. |
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Sunday 9th May - DenpasarBit of a lie-in, slow start, amble off to get my slides, hospital, nice fish, phone Tim and Roger. Once again exhausted when I get back, once again return for football and get a very late night. Rolf sews the seeds of excitement about bootleg software. Repack ready for tomorrow. Monday 10th May - Denpasar to Borobodur, Java |
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Big day, start early, too early in fact. Hospital isn't open, have to wait for air ticket, software shop isn't open, so I've walked a long way for nothing by the time I get back to the hotel soaked in sweat. Get a reasonably cheap taxi to the airport, groovy flight to Yogya and a massively indulgent taxi to my luxury Borobodur hotel. Luxury bath, luxury lunch, hit Borobodur. too many tourists, but as the afternoon progresses I'm more and more inspired, and return at sunset fucked. Drift off to sleep but am woken by the phone, so force down a chicken dinner and phone Mother. Tuesday 11th May - Borobodur to Denpasar |
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Blow sunrise, but am up by 6.30. Take hundreds of photos, back for breakfast, walk to the 2 temples and pick up a bus no problem, then another to Prambanan., which is absolutely amazing. Do the whole lot at breakneck speed and catch a moto to the airport just in time to get drenched. My poor foot, dry out on the plane, back to Bali Yuai, out to Rama, software shop shut but my spirits lift when I find Premiere, Authorware and Kai Soap. Hope they work, wonderful day. Wednesday 12th May - Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia to Darwin, Australia |
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Big day! Up and out, off to airport and lo and behold, I
see my PDI t-shirt. Get coffee at the airport, but not sure
if I can afford a sandwich because of departure tax. First
flight passes quickly, I nod off. Slight hassle at Kupang,
could have afforded a sandwich! Flight very empty and hello,
Darwin. Check in, washing, tour, flight, films, massive
irony that my flight would give me 4 hours in Denpasar! And
a short stop in Singapore, obviously meant to be. Retire to
my local for a pint of VB and fish and chips, nice to be
home! ... continued in Travels in Australia |
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